MOULD REMEDIATION
Do you have mould or mildew on your walls or ceilings?
Are you concerned about how this will affect your health?
Are you concerned about the appearance?
Want to get it fixed and painted ... so it lasts?
Hi I'm Tony Richardson - The Tidy Painter.
I have a MULTI STEP REMEDIATION AND PAINTING SYSTEM that FIXES MOULD for the long term.
Details of HOW I do this below
OR ... CLICK HERE FOR A QUOTE.
Are you concerned about how this will affect your health?
Are you concerned about the appearance?
Want to get it fixed and painted ... so it lasts?
Hi I'm Tony Richardson - The Tidy Painter.
I have a MULTI STEP REMEDIATION AND PAINTING SYSTEM that FIXES MOULD for the long term.
Details of HOW I do this below
OR ... CLICK HERE FOR A QUOTE.
What causes mould?
Most people think mould in their home is caused by some sort of leak. But in my entire career as a painter (and all-round wall/ceiling obsessive) I’ve come across leak formed mould … once.
The vast majority of Mould outbreaks are caused by:
too much CONDENSATION (natural AND man-made dampness)
plus
too little VENTILATION (air movement).
With cooking, washing, using a clothes dryer and just breathing, an average family can create up to 15 litres of airborne moisture a day!
Which is fine if the windows are open and a lovely fresh breeze blows all that moisture away.
But in winter, doors and windows are shut, heaters are on, and ventilation all but ceases. And the warmth of your home meeting the cold outside creates condensation on windows, walls and ceilings. The difference in temperature turns water vapour into … water. A winter home is like an inside-out can of frosty beer on a hot day. Cold meets hot and water condensation occurs.
Mould loves condensation.
Mould loves a lack of air movement.
Mould loves warmth.
Mould loves a nice porous surface to hook into (walls and ceilings).
As a result I get heaps of calls from people concerned about a sudden and unexplained mould outbreak at the end of winter.
At other times of year I’ve seen mould behind pictures, pianos and other wall hugging furniture and in high corners of under-used rooms. This is all caused by a lack of air circulation.
The vast majority of Mould outbreaks are caused by:
too much CONDENSATION (natural AND man-made dampness)
plus
too little VENTILATION (air movement).
With cooking, washing, using a clothes dryer and just breathing, an average family can create up to 15 litres of airborne moisture a day!
Which is fine if the windows are open and a lovely fresh breeze blows all that moisture away.
But in winter, doors and windows are shut, heaters are on, and ventilation all but ceases. And the warmth of your home meeting the cold outside creates condensation on windows, walls and ceilings. The difference in temperature turns water vapour into … water. A winter home is like an inside-out can of frosty beer on a hot day. Cold meets hot and water condensation occurs.
Mould loves condensation.
Mould loves a lack of air movement.
Mould loves warmth.
Mould loves a nice porous surface to hook into (walls and ceilings).
As a result I get heaps of calls from people concerned about a sudden and unexplained mould outbreak at the end of winter.
At other times of year I’ve seen mould behind pictures, pianos and other wall hugging furniture and in high corners of under-used rooms. This is all caused by a lack of air circulation.
Should I be terrified of mould?
Everyday condensation-formed mould is not healthy. It can irritate the breathing of asthmatics, babies and old people. But its not nearly as dangerous as people think. I’m an asthmatic and I clean it up all the time.
Leak-formed mould is more serious, often because it has sometimes been growing for years. It is usually embedded in the fabric of your building. Expert removal is required. (And condensation-formed mould that has been left to run rampant for years would need expert removal too.)
Unfortunately a visit to Dr Google is full of horror stories implying that your basic surface mould is some sort of deadly killer.
These stories are brought to you by mould removal companies. They are probably brilliant at removing the really nasty stuff but are not essential for the much more common basic surface mould. AND they don't do much to stop mould coming back!
Leak-formed mould is more serious, often because it has sometimes been growing for years. It is usually embedded in the fabric of your building. Expert removal is required. (And condensation-formed mould that has been left to run rampant for years would need expert removal too.)
Unfortunately a visit to Dr Google is full of horror stories implying that your basic surface mould is some sort of deadly killer.
These stories are brought to you by mould removal companies. They are probably brilliant at removing the really nasty stuff but are not essential for the much more common basic surface mould. AND they don't do much to stop mould coming back!
How do I get rid of mould?
STAGE 1 - KILL EXISTING MOULD
I put on a mask and remove what I can by wiping and rinsing with one of a range of mouldicides, depending on the location and severity of the problem.
For bad infestations, the fluid must be left for 24 hours to soak deep into the roots. It may need to be applied a second time and left for another 24 hours.
NOTE: I don’t use bleach. Apart from some pretty nasty vapours it doesn’t work long term.
Now this is where most mould removal companies will say goodbye. The area has been soaked in mould killer and looks fine. But what stops the mould from returning?
STAGE 2 –
MAKE SURFACES INHOSPITABLE TO MOULD
The previous stage will kill nearly all of the mould (but some stains and marks might remain. (That’s why people love bleach – everything ‘looks’ white. Don’t do it!)
1. I paint the affected areas with a good quality MOULD KILLING PRIMER. I use Dulux Precision Stain and Mould Blocker. This hides the stains and works long term on any mould roots that have escaped the previous stages. It also seals and hopefully suffocates these escapees.
2. I paint two top coats with a quality ceiling paint. I use Dulux Ceiling White which comes with ‘Mouldshield Technology’.
THE PURPOSE OF PAINTING IS TO CREATE A NEW, CLEAN, INHOSPITABLE ENVIRONMENT THAT NEW MOULD FINDS VERY HARD TO GROW ON.
And if your mould affected area is a bathroom or kitchen ceiling, here’s one more trick!
3. Paint the ceiling with a Low Sheen finish rather than the usual Flat finish. This is shinier and makes gripping that much harder for new mould. I use Dulux Wash and Wear +Plus Kitchen and Bathroom Low Sheen paint. In fact, that’s what’s on my own bathroom and ceiling, in an old house, and we don’t use the fan much. We’ve been mould free since I applied it years ago.
STAGE 3 -
VENTILATE, VENTILATE, VENTILATE - This is your home work.
1. Especially in winter, if you get a dry windy day, throw all your windows open and let the breeze through as many times as you can.
2. Use ceiling fans.
3. Open up unused rooms as much as possible.
4. Get vinegar or oil of cloves onto any new mould spots as soon as you see them, before they grow.
5. Also many air conditioners have a ‘Dry’ setting that dehumidifies as well as cooling.
I put on a mask and remove what I can by wiping and rinsing with one of a range of mouldicides, depending on the location and severity of the problem.
For bad infestations, the fluid must be left for 24 hours to soak deep into the roots. It may need to be applied a second time and left for another 24 hours.
NOTE: I don’t use bleach. Apart from some pretty nasty vapours it doesn’t work long term.
Now this is where most mould removal companies will say goodbye. The area has been soaked in mould killer and looks fine. But what stops the mould from returning?
STAGE 2 –
MAKE SURFACES INHOSPITABLE TO MOULD
The previous stage will kill nearly all of the mould (but some stains and marks might remain. (That’s why people love bleach – everything ‘looks’ white. Don’t do it!)
1. I paint the affected areas with a good quality MOULD KILLING PRIMER. I use Dulux Precision Stain and Mould Blocker. This hides the stains and works long term on any mould roots that have escaped the previous stages. It also seals and hopefully suffocates these escapees.
2. I paint two top coats with a quality ceiling paint. I use Dulux Ceiling White which comes with ‘Mouldshield Technology’.
THE PURPOSE OF PAINTING IS TO CREATE A NEW, CLEAN, INHOSPITABLE ENVIRONMENT THAT NEW MOULD FINDS VERY HARD TO GROW ON.
And if your mould affected area is a bathroom or kitchen ceiling, here’s one more trick!
3. Paint the ceiling with a Low Sheen finish rather than the usual Flat finish. This is shinier and makes gripping that much harder for new mould. I use Dulux Wash and Wear +Plus Kitchen and Bathroom Low Sheen paint. In fact, that’s what’s on my own bathroom and ceiling, in an old house, and we don’t use the fan much. We’ve been mould free since I applied it years ago.
STAGE 3 -
VENTILATE, VENTILATE, VENTILATE - This is your home work.
1. Especially in winter, if you get a dry windy day, throw all your windows open and let the breeze through as many times as you can.
2. Use ceiling fans.
3. Open up unused rooms as much as possible.
4. Get vinegar or oil of cloves onto any new mould spots as soon as you see them, before they grow.
5. Also many air conditioners have a ‘Dry’ setting that dehumidifies as well as cooling.
Make sure the painter you hire to treat your mould problem does the following:
✓ Let's Mould killing solution work for 24 hours
✓Applies second treatment if necessary.
✓ Uses a mould killing primer.
✓ Paints two topcoats (with mould killing additive in paint).
✓ Close attention to detail.
✓ Personalised service.
✓ Detailed written quote.
✓ Fully insured.
✓Punctual, Neat, Courteous, Quiet and Safe.
✓ Let's Mould killing solution work for 24 hours
✓Applies second treatment if necessary.
✓ Uses a mould killing primer.
✓ Paints two topcoats (with mould killing additive in paint).
✓ Close attention to detail.
✓ Personalised service.
✓ Detailed written quote.
✓ Fully insured.
✓Punctual, Neat, Courteous, Quiet and Safe.